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What we offerMutual funds build wealth. Insurance stops one bad year destroying it. Fixed deposits hold the money you cannot afford to see fall. Most people need all three — in that order of urgency, not that order of interest.
Goal-based SIPs and lumpsum investing across equity, debt and hybrid schemes. We work out the number you are aiming at first, then the allocation, then the scheme — in that order.
Term life, health and general cover, solicited as a Point of Sales Person on behalf of a licensed broker. Bought for what it pays out, not for what it returns — insurance and investment are different jobs.
Insurance is a subject matter of solicitation.
For the part of your money that must not fall. Corporate deposits usually pay more than a bank — and carry more risk, which is the thing to understand before you commit rather than after.
Company deposits are not covered by deposit insurance.
Borrow against your holdings instead of redeeming them. Your units stay invested and stay yours; only a lien is marked. Useful when the need is short-term and selling would cost you tax and compounding.
If you have dependants and no term cover, buying a SIP is the second-best use of your next ₹5,000. We'll say so, even though the SIP is the thing we're better known for.
Term life if anyone depends on you. Health cover for the whole family. These are cheap, boring, and the reason a plan survives contact with reality.
Three to six months of expenses somewhere stable and reachable. Fixed deposits, liquid funds, or a mix.
Mutual funds, mapped to specific goals with specific dates. This is where the compounding happens — but only if the first two steps hold.
Bought for the right reason, at the right sum assured, from an insurer with a settlement record worth having. Not bundled into an investment.
Pure protection, no investment component, no maturity value. The cheapest way by a wide margin to make sure your family is fine if you aren't there. Typically 10–15× your annual income, until your dependants are independent.
A family floater sized for the hospitals you'd actually use, plus a super top-up for the large claims. Employer cover alone is a bad plan — it disappears the day you change jobs, which is often the day you need it.
Motor, home and travel. Low-drama products where the only things that matter are the claim process and not being under-insured on the sum insured.
Age, health, dependants, existing cover and the liabilities you would leave behind all change what is appropriate — and by how much. Talk to us and we will work out what you actually need, then share the insurer's own product brochures and documentation so you can read the terms for yourself before deciding anything.
How it goes from there.
A conversation about your circumstances and what cover is appropriate · The insurer's
own brochures and policy wordings, so you read the terms from the source · Help with the
proposal, medicals and documentation · Support at claim time, which is the only moment
any of this is judged.
No premium, rate or term is quoted on this page. All cover is subject to the insurer's
underwriting, and anything indicated before a proposal is accepted is indicative only.
A short-term need doesn't have to cost you your compounding. Pledge your mutual fund units, draw a credit line against them, and leave the investment running.
Units are lien-marked with the registrar — they stay yours, stay invested, and keep growing. You pay interest only on what you actually draw, not on the sanctioned limit.
Typically far cheaper than a personal loan, and it avoids the two hidden costs of redeeming: capital gains tax, and the compounding you never get back.
Loans are provided by our lending partner —, not by Niveshmart. Sanction, interest rate and eligibility are entirely at the lender's discretion and subject to their terms. Credit facilities are secured against your mutual fund units; failure to repay can result in those units being liquidated by the lender.
For the part of your money that must not fall. Corporate FDs typically pay more than a bank deposit — and carry more risk, which is exactly the thing to understand before you commit.
Cumulative or payout options, with the interest-income tax treatment explained before you decide — because for many people that changes which option wins.
A corporate FD paying 2% more than your bank is not free money. You are being paid for taking the credit risk of that company. Ratings help, but they are an opinion, not a guarantee — and they get downgraded.
So we'd say: keep genuinely critical money in bank deposits, spread corporate FDs across issuers rather than chasing the highest single rate, and never put an emergency fund somewhere with a lock-in.
Interest is taxed at your slab rate. For anyone in the 30% bracket, a debt mutual fund is often worth comparing before you commit.
Most families end up with a mutual fund person, an insurance agent from a cousin's friend, an FD at whichever bank had a poster up, and no single view of any of it.
Nobody is looking at whether the term cover is enough, whether the FD is doing a job the debt allocation already does, or whether the same goal is being funded twice.
